Dear all,
Another two weeks and I could write another novel to you all about life in Rome. There’s been an almost unceasing round of talks at other institutes, building visits, exhibitions and exploring Rome, all between hours and hours of (wonderful) time in the library. (It’s so easy to be creative here, the tricky thing is finding the time to do all that you want to). I also had the delightful surprise of a couple of architects turning up, one of whom is a friend of my university tutor. It’s been wonderful to talk architecture with people who are interested! However, you aren’t here for my diary.
I mentioned last time that I wasn’t quite ready to talk to you about medieval towers- my research while i’m here- however, today I think I will begin to tell you about them. The wealthy families of Rome, in common with many Italian cities, used to build towers. In Rome this took place between the 11th and 15th centuries, and at the height of its tower building Rome could boast between 300 and 900 towers- depending on whose research you believe the most. There are remnants of between thirty and forty still standing today- again depending on your definition of remnant.
When I arrived my research question was very broad- find out about the towers, and see if something about them could contribute to ideas about building tall today. The more I have explored the city looking for these, read about them and the people who built them though the more surprised I have been about where the story leads. On the face of it this is a simple story. Wealth was largely portable in the middle ages, there was no centralised power in Italy so wealthy families fortified themselves. A tower was part of a defensive compound. Others, later, built towers to signify status. Tall = wealthy and powerful; to some extent the same story as today.
Except, towards the end of the 15th century wealthy families stopped building towers. Italy was slightly more politically stable, but renaissance architectural theorists still deal with fortifications and walls. Early renaissance cities were often dangerous and violent places to be. Wealth and power still needed to be protected. However, the tower had lost its potency as a symbol. Instead, if one wanted to demonstrate one was part of the elite, one built a palazzo. There are several theories as to why, but this transition is not a well studied area and I don’t want to presuppose the story before I finish a couple more books…
I am currently considering the best vehicle to transmit what i’ve been working on- and all I plan to do over the coming weeks! However, in the meantime please enjoy the story below attached to one of the towers (a personal favourite)- the torre della Scimmia, the tower of the monkey.
As the legend goes a monkey lived inside the tower, a pet of the family. A baby was born to the family and the monkey was fascinated often spending time near its cradle. One day the monkey took it upon itself to take the baby out of the cradle and to the top of the tower where, to the horror of a gathering crowd it proceeded to unravel the swaddling from the baby as it had seen its mother do many times.
The crowd begins to call on the Virgin Mary to save the baby and the father of the baby calls for the monkey to bring the baby back. It was not though, until he expresses a vow to the Madonna that the monkey re-wraps the baby and returns it safely to the window. A statuette of the Madonna is still said to be at the top of the tower,
The legends associated with this tower, and many others across the city suggest that towers were a crucial part of Rome’s folklore and identity for centuries… but more for another day!
Alongside my research the last few weeks have been exciting ones. I gave a talk (which can be watched from the Churches Conservation Trust facebook page) about the history of architects, and my book became available for purchase from RIBA books (from amazon/ waterstones etc. from 1st March- speak to me first if you work for AAM and were thinking of getting one!).
Aside from architecturally related things I was invited, as a BSR award holder, to watch a display of Carabinieri horsemanship in honour of the visit of two senior UK politicians to Italy. It was a wonderfully surreal afternoon that included being driven as part of a motorbike escorted motorcade of five coaches through the centre of Rome, and watching some wonderful displays of horsemanship.
On another surreal note I have been attending various talks and events at the other foreign academies in Rome. This week I found myself part of an audience quizzed on their sexual preferences and lectured on, well i’d have to censor myself, as part of what was an unexpectedly X-rated lecture by an elderly and distinguished Norwegian professor on Etruscan routes to the afterlife.
Now I am not sure how I would follow that anecdote so I won’t attempt to but will instead wish you all well until next time!
Eleanor
It was interesting to read, thanks. Judging by your story, in the old days the construction of tall buildings was practically justified. Are there practical reasons to build towers these days?
Eleanor, your posts are a delight & I think your research area intriguing. So pleased to find you in my inbox. Continue to enjoy your time in the Eternal City, & I keenly anticipate your next post. Pg